Think of it as a long-term investment. A quality suit is something every guy should have in his closet. But unlike that trendy shirt or jeans, a suit is going to be hanging around for some time, so it’s important you get one that fits properly. A great-fitting suit can actually make a guy appear taller, fitter, and more confident. Let’s face it, what guy doesn’t feel like he can take on the world when he’s wearing a sharp looking suit?
MADE-TO-MEASURE: Well Worth the Investment
Did you know there’s a better option than buying an off-the-rack suit? With that off-the-rack suit, you then have to pay to have it tailored – and a tailor will only be able to make certain adjustments to an already-constructed suit. Now you can have one customized to your exact specifications! One of my favorite retailers that offers this service is DXL. At DXL, not only will you find a variety of quality suiting styles and brands to choose from – you’ll also get custom measured and fitted to perfection by an expert tailor (also known as Made-to-Measure).
MOST BIG MEN Buy a Suit 1 to 2 Sizes Too Large or Too Small
We’ve all done it – grab a suit off the rack and, with a thumbs up from the sales associate, convince ourselves it looks great. Once home, we realize it doesn’t look as good as it did in the store’s mirror. The shoulders droop. The sleeves are too long. The pants are too short. And not even the best tailor can fix some of these problems.
6 COMMON MISTAKES to Avoid When Buying a Suit
Overall Comfort: Does your suit fit right? Have a seat and see. When you sit, unbutton the jacket so it doesn’t ride up. If the pants are bunching in the crotch when seated, they’re too tight. If you can’t sit comfortably without the suit pulling at you, it’s time to reassess.
Shirt Collar: Hot under the collar? Try the two-finger test. As a general rule, you should be able to comfortably fit two fingers between your neck and the fastened collar. If you can’t, it’s too tight. Any more and it’s too loose – and not even a tie will help hide that.
The Shoulder: One place on a suit that even a fine tailor can’t alter is the shoulders. If the shoulders are too big, you look like a kid playing dress-up. The shoulder seam should rest naturally on your shoulder. It should be smooth, and should not have an indent in the drape when you stand with your arms by your side.
Sleeve Length: You need to consider both the shirt and the jacket. Let’s start with the shirt sleeve. It should hit where your wrist and palm meet. The jacket sleeve, on the other hand, should hit at the bump in the wrist where your arm meets your hand. When worn together, about ½” of the shirt cuff should show when your arms are at your side.
Jacket Length: Follow this rule of thumb (literally!): the jacket sleeve should end somewhere between your thumb’s knuckle and the base of the thumb. And the jacket should completely cover the top of your rear end, but no more than that.
Pant Length: The right “break” can make the look. When we refer to a break in the pants, this is where the pants hit the shoes, creating one single fold in the fabric across the front of the leg. To achieve the ideal “break”, the length of the pants should hit midway between the top of the shoe and the top of the shoe’s sole.
MORE TIPS for Big and Tall Men to Consider…
Tying the Look Together: A great tie makes a statement – just make sure it’s done right. As a rule, the tip of the tie should touch your belt buckle (you ARE wearing a belt, right?). If you pinch the knot too tight, it will look disproportionate to the tie’s body; too loose and it will overpower your collar. The knot should sit firmly, but not so much that you can’t breathe. And it should always cover the shirt’s top button.
And, let’s not forget the “dimple” – a fold in the fabric below the knot. Simply place your index finger in the middle of the tie where the knot is forming. Next, pinch that part of the tie between your thumb and middle finger. Squeeze the fingers together as you pull down and tighten the knot.
To Pleat or Not to Pleat: If you have a larger build and larger legs, pleated pants can provide a more slimming effect. They also allow more freedom of movement. Just don’t overdo it – one or two pleats are plenty. Flat-front dress pants create a smooth, streamlined look; however, larger guys may find flat-front pants too restrictive and binding. Remember, comfort is also key to great style.
Finishing Touches: No men’s accessory gets you noticed more than a great pair of cuff links. And while some style gurus discourage wearing them without a suit, others say express your individuality with a bold set paired with jeans. One thing they all agree on – only wear them on a shirt with French cuffs. And one other sure way to bring your suit to life is with a colorful pocket square. Just be sure it complements the colors in your tie, but it should never match exactly. Visit https://www.dxl.com/suit-yourself/cat1040050